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Repair guide · Roof flashing leaks

Chimney and Roof Flashing Repair in Franklin County, MO

Flashing is the metal that seals roof joints where shingles cannot, like chimneys, walls, skylights and vent pipes. It fails before shingles do, which is why it causes most roof leaks. A proper repair pulls the old metal, replaces step and counter-flashing, and magnet-sweeps the site for nails.

If your roof leaks near a chimney, skylight, or vent pipe, the shingles are almost never the problem. The flashing is. Flashing is the thin metal that seals every spot where your roof meets something it cannot shingle over, and it is the number-one source of roof leaks in Franklin County homes.

This guide walks through how each type of flashing works, why it fails, the warning signs inside your house, and what an honest repair actually looks like. Emmendorfer Exteriors has roofed 2,400-plus Missouri homes since 1990 with in-house family crews, so we see flashing failures every week across Union, Washington, Pacific, and the rest of the county.

Why flashing causes most roof leaks

Shingles shed water across a flat field of roof, but they cannot seal a corner, a wall, or a hole. Anywhere your roof changes direction or something pokes through it, water needs a metal channel to guide it back onto the shingles. That metal is flashing, and it lives at chimneys, sidewalls, skylights, valleys, and vent pipes.

Those transition points take the most stress. Sun, freeze-thaw cycles, and a settling chimney work the metal loose long before the shingles wear out. So a roof with ten good years left will still leak at the chimney. That is why a leak almost always traces back to flashing, not the shingle field around it.

The fix is rarely a whole new roof. A flashing leak caught early is a targeted repair. Ignored, the water rots decking and framing under the chimney, and a one-day repair turns into a structural one. Catching it early is the whole game.

Step flashing and counter-flashing explained

A chimney needs two layers of metal working together. Step flashing is a series of L-shaped pieces woven in with each course of shingles up the side of the chimney. Each piece laps the one below it, so water steps down and out instead of finding the seam. One bent or missing step piece is enough to leak.

Counter-flashing is the second layer. It tucks into a cut groove in the brick or mortar and laps over the top of the step flashing, sealing the gap from above. Done right, the brick cap protects the seam for decades. The wrong way is a bead of caulk or tar smeared over the joint, which dries, cracks, and fails in a couple of seasons.

When you see black roof tar packed around a chimney, that is a red flag. It means someone patched a flashing problem instead of fixing it. A proper repair pulls the old metal, installs new step and counter-flashing, and seals it into the masonry so the joint sheds water on its own.

Chimney crickets and saddles

A wide chimney, typically anything over about 30 inches across, needs a cricket. A cricket, also called a saddle, is a small peaked structure built on the up-slope side of the chimney. It splits water and debris and sends them around both sides instead of letting them pile against the brick.

Without a cricket, water and wet leaves dam up behind a wide chimney. That standing water works under the flashing and rots the decking, and in a Missouri winter the freeze-thaw pries the seam open faster. A lot of older Franklin County homes were built without one, and that back wall is exactly where they start leaking.

Adding a cricket during a flashing repair or a roof replacement is a permanent fix for that problem. We frame it, deck it, and flash it as part of the system, so the most vulnerable side of your chimney finally drains the way it should.

Skylight and vent-pipe flashing

Skylights are leak-prone because they combine a frame, glass, and flashing on a sloped surface. Most skylights use a head, sill, and step flashing kit, and the seal under the curb can fail even when the glass is fine. If you see staining on the drywall around a skylight, the flashing or the gasket is usually the cause, not the window.

Vent pipes use a rubber boot, a flat flange under the shingles with a collar that hugs the pipe. The flange almost never fails. The rubber collar does. Missouri sun bakes it brittle in roughly eight to twelve years, it cracks, and water runs straight down the pipe into the attic.

A failed pipe boot is one of the cheapest leaks to fix and one of the most common we find. We replace it with a new boot, or a metal-and-rubber unit that outlasts the all-rubber kind, and re-weave the shingles so the new flange sits under them the way it should.

What a proper flashing repair looks like

A real repair starts on the roof, not from a ladder. We lift the surrounding shingles, remove the failed metal, and inspect the decking underneath for rot. If the wood is soft, it gets replaced before any new flashing goes down, because new metal over rotten decking just hides the next leak.

Then we install new flashing the right way for that joint: woven step flashing, counter-flashing cut into the masonry, a new pipe boot, or a cricket where the chimney needs one. We re-lay the shingles over the new metal and seal only where sealant belongs, not as the fix itself. No tar smeared over a bad joint.

Every job ends with a magnet sweep of the whole site for nails, so your yard, driveway, and tires stay safe. Because our crews are in-house family rather than subcontractors, the same Owens Corning certified standard holds whether it is a single pipe boot or a full chimney re-flash.

When flashing damage is an insurance claim

Wind and hail damage flashing the same way they damage shingles. A storm can lift counter-flashing out of the mortar, dent metal, or tear a pipe boot. When that happens, the repair may be covered, and it pays to have it looked at before you file or settle.

Tom Emmendorfer handles the insurance side and meets your adjuster on the roof, start to finish. Being up there together means the flashing damage gets documented properly instead of getting missed or written off as wear. Amy shoots drone photos so the whole roof is on record before anyone signs off.

If your leak started after a storm, do not assume it is just age. Get it inspected, get it documented, and let us walk the claim with you. See our storm damage and insurance claim guides for how the process works in Missouri.

FAQ

Chimney Flashing: common questions

Almost always the flashing. Shingles shed water across the open roof, but they cannot seal the joint where the roof meets the chimney. That seam relies on step and counter-flashing, and it works loose long before shingles wear out. If your leak is near the chimney, start by inspecting the metal, not the shingle field around it.
It buys a season at most. Caulk and roof tar dry out, crack, and pull away from brick within a couple of years, and you are back to a leak plus a mess to remove. A proper repair installs new step and counter-flashing tied into the masonry so the joint sheds water on its own, without depending on a bead of sealant.
A cricket, or saddle, is a small peak built on the up-slope side of a wide chimney to split water around it. Chimneys wider than about 30 inches typically need one. Without it, water and leaves dam against the back wall, work under the flashing, and rot the decking. Many older Franklin County homes were built without one.
The rubber collar on the pipe boot has cracked. The flat metal flange under the shingles rarely fails, but Missouri sun bakes the rubber brittle in roughly eight to twelve years, it splits, and water runs down the pipe into the attic. It is one of the cheapest, most common leaks we fix, usually a same-day boot replacement.
It depends on the joint and whether the decking underneath is rotted. A single vent-pipe boot is usually a low-cost, same-day job. Full chimney re-flashing with new step and counter-flashing costs more, and adding a cricket adds framing. We give a written estimate after we are on the roof and can see the actual condition, not a phone guess.
It can when wind or hail caused it. Storms lift counter-flashing out of the mortar, dent metal, and tear pipe boots. Tom Emmendorfer meets your adjuster on the roof start to finish so the damage gets documented instead of written off as wear. Have it inspected before you file or settle, since flashing damage is easy to miss from the ground.
New metal flashing tied into masonry should last the life of the surrounding roof, often decades. The weak point is usually rubber, like a pipe boot collar, which we can upgrade to a metal-and-rubber unit that outlasts the all-rubber kind. Done right, with new decking where needed, you should not see that joint leak again for many years.
Yes. We magnet-sweep the entire job site after every repair, big or small, so your yard, driveway, garden beds, and tires stay clear of stray nails. Our crews are in-house family, not subcontractors, so the same cleanup standard holds whether we replaced one pipe boot or re-flashed a full chimney.
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Get your flashing inspected before the next leak

If your roof leaks near a chimney, skylight, or vent pipe, Emmendorfer Exteriors will get on the roof, find the real cause, and hand you a written estimate, no phone guesses. Call (314) 568-4163 to book a free on-roof inspection across Union, Washington, Pacific, and all of Franklin County.

  • We walk your actual roof before we quote it
  • The manufacturer is named on your written estimate
  • The price you approve is the price you pay
  • Tom handles your insurance claim start to finish
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